On the Left Bank, Montparnasse still carries the scent of the Roaring Twenties, when painters, poets and lovers gathered on the terraces of its grand cafés. A century on, the district remains one of the most endearing in Paris for a getaway for two: legendary cafés, artists’ studios turned museums, and large gardens where time slows down.
Here are our favourite ways to experience Montparnasse as a couple, a few minutes from the suites of the Hôtel Helzear Montparnasse, in the heart of the 14th.
Why Montparnasse suits a romantic weekend
Montparnasse was long the refuge of artists and of couples in search of freedom. That heritage still shows in its Art Deco brasseries, its studio-lined lanes and its bookshops.
The district also has what the Right Bank rarely offers: real village life, markets, pedestrian streets and large gardens, away from the crowds around the monuments. You wander with no plan, linger on a terrace, and walk home in the evening.
Strolls for two in the Left Bank gardens
Lose yourselves in the paths of the Jardin du Luxembourg
About twenty minutes away on foot, the majestic Jardin du Luxembourg remains the most romantic garden in Paris. You wander among the statues and the great pond, settle onto a chair by the water, and share a moment doing nothing at all. A classic you never tire of together.
A green interlude in the Parc Montsouris
More discreet, the Parc Montsouris unfolds its rolling lawns and its lake in the south of the 14th. Away from the tourist routes, it is the local couples’ refuge for an impromptu picnic or a nap in the shade of the tall trees.
In the footsteps of artists’ Montparnasse
The legendary cafés of Boulevard du Montparnasse
You cannot talk about the district without sitting down in one of its legendary cafés. La Rotonde, Le Dôme and Le Select saw Hemingway, Modigliani and so many others pass through. Treat yourselves to a coffee on the terrace or a cocktail at dusk, in the very setting where the history of art was being written.
The Musée Antoine Bourdelle, a studio-garden in the open air
For an interlude both artistic and romantic, push open the door of the delightful Musée Antoine Bourdelle. The sculptor’s former studio, a stone’s throw from the station, has kept its glass roofs, its monumental plasters and, above all, its gardens dotted with bronzes, among the most peaceful corners of the district. Entry to the permanent collections is free, and it is easy to linger there together, sheltered from the bustle.
The intimate Institut Giacometti
Another cultural pause on a human scale, the refined Institut Giacometti, set in an Art Deco townhouse a few minutes from the hotel, recreates the sculptor’s studio. Small and hushed, it is visited tête-à-tête, far from the crowds of the great museums. Remember to book your time slot in advance.
A walk through the Montparnasse cemetery
The idea may surprise, but the Cimetière du Montparnasse is one of the finest walks in the district, beneath its avenues of trees. Here lie the graves of Simone de Beauvoir and Jean-Paul Sartre, of Serge Gainsbourg and Baudelaire. A romantic, literary stroll, away from the noise.
Savour Montparnasse together
Shop the Rue Daguerre and the Edgar-Quinet market
In the morning, the Rue Daguerre, pedestrian and full of good food, and the Edgar-Quinet market make you want to cook. Cheesemongers, greengrocers and pastry chefs put together the loveliest breakfast to take away, to enjoy at leisure in your suite’s kitchen corner.
Dine in an Art Deco brasserie
In the evening, treat yourselves to a dinner for two beneath the frescoes and columns of La Coupole, or at one of the more intimate tables in the surrounding streets. The hotel’s concierge, available day and night, recommends and books the address to suit the mood of the moment.
A shiver for two in the Catacombs
For curious couples, the Catacombs of Paris, less than ten minutes from the hotel, hold an unusual visit through the city’s underground galleries. An experience apart, leaving a memory as strange as it is striking. Remember to book your ticket online, as there are no sales on site.
Where to stay for a romantic weekend in Montparnasse?
To extend the escape, the Hôtel Helzear Montparnasse, at 40 rue Liancourt, offers suites and apartments with a kitchen corner, designed as Left Bank cocoons. A few minutes from Gaîté metro (line 13), it is a quiet, central base to live the district like a resident.
Couples looking for a moment entirely their own will appreciate the Deluxe Suite with its private jacuzzi and sauna, or the suites with a terrace. Just the place to come back and unwind after a day of wandering. For a stay full of charm, discover also our boutique hotel of character on the Left Bank. For the best rate, book direct
FAQ: A romantic weekend in Montparnasse
What can couples do in Montparnasse?
Wander through the Jardin du Luxembourg or the Parc Montsouris, have a drink in the legendary cafés of Boulevard du Montparnasse, visit the Musée Antoine Bourdelle and its sculpture gardens, then dine in an Art Deco brasserie such as La Coupole.
Is Montparnasse a romantic district?
Yes. A former stronghold of artists and poets, the Left Bank has kept its legendary cafés, its studio-museums and its large gardens. Quieter than the Right Bank, it lends itself to a getaway for two away from the crowds.
Which museums can you visit as a couple in Montparnasse?
The Musée Antoine Bourdelle, with its studio and bronze gardens (free permanent collections), and the Institut Giacometti, an Art Deco townhouse that recreates the sculptor’s studio. Two intimate addresses, perfect for a visit tête-à-tête.
What is there to do in Montparnasse on a rainy day, as a couple?
The district has no shortage of indoor options: the Musée Antoine Bourdelle, the Institut Giacometti, a long lunch in an Art Deco brasserie, or a screening in one of the many cinemas on Boulevard du Montparnasse.
Is the Hôtel Helzear Montparnasse suitable for a romantic stay?
Yes. Its suites with a kitchen corner, a few minutes from Gaîté metro, offer a discreet cocoon on the Left Bank. The Deluxe Suite, with its private jacuzzi and sauna, is ideal for a moment for two.